All About Watercress – with Watercress, Beet, and Orange Salad Recipe
From JEFF COX
I know a place in the deep woods of Pennsylvania where a spring bubbles up out of the ground. Someone long ago built a small cobblestone house about the size of a doghouse over the spring, and to the front fixed a door with a screen to keep out insects. The water exits through a small sluice below the door and runs away down a gentle slope. Along the first 20 feet or so of its length, watercress grows. As the spring comes on, first a few leaves appear, the more, then more, until by June there’s a big bank of it. In the cool and pretty month of May, the cress is at is finest—juicy, crunch, and slightly peppery, with a clean, refreshing flavor that’s the vegetative equivalent of the spring water itself.
This is my memory of that place, and I drank there often as a boy and enjoyed a few leaves of watercress, plain and raw. It’s been many decades since I’ve been there, and I hope it hasn’t changed a wink, since the world needs places like that for boys and girls to find and to know the taste of pure, natural spring water bubbled fresh through subterranean rocks, and the watercress that grows in it.
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Nasturtium officinale
As the botanical name shows, watercress is the official nasturtium; while it shares a spicy, peppery quality with the brightly colored garden flowers we call nasturtiums, those garden flowers are Tropaeolum majus, botanically a different plant. Watercress is a member of the mustard family along with cabbage, kale, hohlrabi, broccoli, cauliflower, and other common herbs and vegetables. Most of these mustards have the pungent quality that makes watercress such a pick-me-up in salads.
Watercress grows just about everywhere in North America that water flows, and foraging for your own leaves can be a wonderful way of getting he freshest, crispect organic leaves imaginable. Be aware that watercress will grow just fine in polluted ditches along roadsides and farm fields so if you are gathering from the wild, make sure that the water in which it grows is pure. It can also be grown in the garden as long as the soil is kept well moistened.
The Organic Factor
Like the other members of the brassica, or mustard, family, watercress is attacked by flea beetles, among other insects, and conventional growers will spray pesticides to keep them from eating holes in the leaves. Organic growers use traps, nontoxic repellent sprays, and mesh row covers or other physical barriers to keep the insects away. The B&W Company, which sells watercress to Europe as well as the United States, is the largest supplier of certified organic watercress in the country.
Nutrition
Fresh watercress is a nutritious plant. Just 3 ounces (a small bunch) gives us 200 percent of our daily requirement of vitamin C, and it’s also rich in calcium, beta-carotene, iron, and the antioxidant selenium. It stimulates the production of the enzyme glutathione-S-transferase, which protects the colon’s mucosa from cancer-causing foodstuffs like nitrites and charred meat.
Seasonality
Watercress is a perennial whose roots survive the winter in all but the coldest regions of the country. Watercress can get too peppery fairly quickly in the spring, so early spring is the prime time for this leafy green. I find that by the time watercress starts blooming, it’s too pungent and is past its prime.
What To Look For
The best watercress shows no blooming stalks or even unopened flowers. Its leaves are small and its stems delicate and juicy. When picking over watercress at the market, avoid any with thickened or tough stems, or with leaves that have started to yellow.
Preparation
Wash your watercress carefully, inspecting both sides of the leaves, as small snails and a particular sort of little black beetle enjoy the cress, too. If the stems are thick, you might want to remove and only use the leaves on the thinnest stems, especially in salads.
Uses
Use watercress as soon as possible after you get it home, as it quickly loses its fresh, sweet quality Watercress stars in salads, providing pungency to brighten the mild flavor of lettuce. Try crisp watercress instead of lettuce in your next sandwich. Puree raw watercress with a bit of liquid to make a quick and easy sauce to stir into soups (such as vichyssoise) right before serving.
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Organic Watercress, Beet, and Orange Salad
Serves 4
The flavors in this salad are remarkable in the way they harmonize and complement each other. The roasted beets will need time to chill, so make them a day ahead.
3 small beets, with root tip and 1 inch of stem left attached
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
6 tablespoons olive oil
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of fresh or dried thyme
1 bunch watercress, washed well and drained
1 small head butterhead lettuce, rinsed and dried in paper towels
1 head Belgian endive
1 mandarin orange, peeled and segmented (other sweet citrus can be used, but remove tough membranes and seeds)
1/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup soft goat cheese (2 to 3 ounces)
1. Preheat oven to 425ºF. Roast the beets on a sheet pan for about 1 hour, until the beet flesh shrinks away from its skin. Let cool, peel, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate until cold, 3 hours or overnight.
2. In a jar with a screw cap, combine the vinegar, salt, mustard, olive oil, pepper, and thyme, and shake vigorously for half a minute.
3. Quarter the beets. Pick through the watercress, removing large stems, yellowed leaves, and roots.
4. In a salad bowl, make a bed with the lettuce leaves. Cut the endive in half lengthwise, then cut each half into thirds. Separate these and sprinkle over the lettuce. Scatter the watercress over the salad, then the beets, the orange segments, and the walnuts, and sprinkle the top with the parsley. Finally, make dots of goat cheese over the surface of the salad. Shake the vinaigrette vigorously once more, then sprinkle over the salad. No need to toss as the dressing will coat the salad as it is served.
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