Archive for February, 2008

Berkeley Organic Mesclun Salad With Baked Goat Cheese Recipe

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From Greg Atkinson

In the last quarter of the twentieth century, when young cooks first started localizing elements of French country cooking, finding good salad greens presented an almost insurmountable hurdle. These days, the mixed baby greens known as mesclun are available ready to eat in most supermarkets, making what was once a labor of love into an easy-to-prepare element of any weeknight dinner. This French-American salad may be the quintessential West Coast salad.

Makes 4 servings

For the Salad

8 ounces organically grown prewashed mixed baby greens
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small (4-ounce or 6-ounce) log fresh white goat cheese, or two 2-ounce crotins cut into 4 rounds

For the Vinaigrette

1 shallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoons white or red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
6 tablespoons fruity green olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Put the greens in a salad bowl, cover with a damp paper towel, and refrigerate until serving time.

2. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Drizzle the olive oil onto a small baking sheet or an oven-safe sauté pan, set the cheese rounds on the oil, and turn them once so that each round of cheese is coated top and bottom with the oil. Pop the cheese rounds into the oven and bake until they are heated through, about 8 minutes.

3. While the cheese is baking, make the vinaigrette. In a medium bowl, whisk together the shallot, vinegar, and mustard; then, still whisking, drizzle in the olive oil. Toss the salad greens with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper over the dressed greens and distribute them evenly among 4 salad plates.

4. With a spatula, carefully transfer a round of hot goat cheese to the center of each salad, and serve at once.
~~
Greg Atkinson is author of West Coast Cooking and lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington.
© Copyright Greg Atkinson
Image Credit: © Andrija Kovač | Dreamstime.com
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Do Not Try This At Home (with Stove Top Organic Popcorn Recipe)

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From Lisa Barnes

I learned two lessons this week. The first is you can’t believe everything on the Internet. The second is recipe writing and following directions has room for errors. Here’s my humbling and expensive experience of having to buy a new microwave.

I’ve been working on a new book and have been recipe testing popped corn recipes. I’m not a big popped corn fan. Sometimes I buy unsalted, unbuttered microwave organic popped corn for my husband and son. It seems like cardboard, but they like it. I prefer the real deal, popped on the stove (recipe below). But I saw a recipe online for putting regular (unpopped) organic popcorn kernals in a dry bag in the microwave. Thinking this is a good short cut to let readers know about, I decided to test it. (I’m not going to give you the recipe because I don’t want you to challenge me and have to buy a new microwave too.)

I was a little leary, thinking it wasn’t going to work. I put it on for 2 minutes, rather than the recommended 3, because my microwave cooks a bit hot. I stood by (luckily my kids were napping) and it actually worked. Pop, Pop, Pop! I thought, hey what a simple way to make low-fat, no chemical organic popped corn. Until the microwave beeped and I opened the door to see a side of the bag on fire, and burning the inside of the microwave.

I quickly and carefully grabbed the bag with metal thongs, put it in the sink and doused it with water. I went around and opened all the windows and doors so the smoke wouldn’t build and set off the fire alarm (luckily the microweave is in a walk-in pantry). Then I tried to wipe out the microwave. Yikes. Lots of black soot, a big burn mark and a horrible smell. There was not going to be any wiping out. Yep, I cooked my microwave. I decided there could be a few reasons this recipe backfired (literally)…

1. The bag pushed against the air intake when the carousel went around at the end of cooking.
2. My microwave cooks too hot for this to work.
3. The bag was folded too tight and got too hot inside.

So, I’m sticking to the plain old stove top old fashioned method, see below:

If you have a pot with a clear lid you and your child will enjoy witnessing the “pop”. Note: The American Pediatric Association warns giving children under 4 years old popped corn as it is a potential choking hazard.

Stove Top Organic Popped Corn

Makes 7 to 8 cups

2 tablespoons peanut oil
1/3 cup organic popping corn

Put oil and one kernel of popcorn in a large heavy-bottom pot. Cover and heat over medium-high heat. When the kernel pops (about 3 minutes), add 1/3 cup popcorn in a single layer and cover. Once pops are less frequent, move pot a few times back and forth over heat until pops stop. Remove pot from heat, carefully remove lid and transfer popcorn to a large bowl.

Add a sprinkling of desired topping. Or make separate bowls for each family member to dress and enjoy their own. Some suggestions include: cinnamon, cayenne pepper, parmesan cheese (sorry vegans), paprika, salt, pepper and sugar.
~~
Lisa Barnes is author of The Petit Appetit Cookbook: Easy, Organic Recipes to Nurture Your Baby and Toddler and lives in Sausalito, California.
OrganicToBe.org OrganicToGo.com
Image Credit: Wikipedia GNU Free Documentation License
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A Farmer Goes To A Rock Concert

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From Gene Logsdon

It seemed inconceivable that the music of Ted Nugent, the Motor City Madman, and his rock group, “Damn Yankees,” could have cultural connections to old mother agriculture.

Accustomed as I was to the song of meadowlarks, hard rock music reminded me of the noise that would ensue if you dropped a hound dog into a barrel with a couple of raccoons and clamped the lid down tight.

The thought that I might ever attend a rock concert was too ridiculous to contemplate. But by and by I did just that, and although what happened after the concert was more important in finding the agricultural connection to it, the whole affair proved to me that agrarianism still has an artful hold on society even where and when it is least expected.

Before the concert, I had found the four members of the band to be gentlemanly, cultured, friendly almost to a fault, family-oriented, and even, with the exception of Mr. Nugent himself, subdued. On stage now, they had apparently all gone insane, prancing and dancing like a bunch of calves turned out on pasture for the first time in spring. They were screaming out their hit song, Coming of Age. I bowed my head, shoved a finger in each ear, and awaited death by sonar ray, like in those old Flash Gorden epics. I was old enough to have fathered Ted Nugent, who was no spring chicken, and it occurred to me that here in the final moments of my life, I was the one “coming of age,” not all those stomping, arm-flailing, young people in the audience. I was experiencing a mind-blotting, physically painful eclipse of intellect as well as extinction of what remained of my eardrums. (They had been ruined in my childhood when I had to drive our mufflerless old tractor for days on end.) One of the guards in front of the stage, seeing my predicament, stepped forward and gave me waxed sponge plugs like he was wearing.

The noise did not much bother my eyes, however, and so close to the performers, I was dumbstruck by the awesome physical energy that they poured into their work and the total lack of rationality that they exhibited. I tried to remember the backstage Ted Nugent, now riding his guitar around that stage like a crazed witch on a broomstick. He had been holding his baby daughter, arm around his wife, sipping water, a far, far cry from the creature up there on the stage. What he had talked about, backstage, was the blessed peace of his thousand acres of farm and forest in Michigan where he lived. I remembered again what he had said. “There, at least there on my land, wildness and solitude will reign as long as I live.” Again, the agrarian solution. He had gone on to say that although he did not farm any of his land himself, he did hunt avidly and regularly and in that way provided almost all the meat that his family ate.

Even Michael Cartellone, an urban boy if there ever was one, glistening now with sweat rolling down his naked torso, periodically breaking hickory drumsticks over his drums and tossing the pieces to the crowd, was not unaffected by agrarian roots. He and his brother, Joe, my son-in-law, (that’s how I happened to be in the front row) had charmed me earlier with a glimpse of their family history. Their grandparents, immigrants from Italy, practiced the same kind of subsistence farming that my countryside ancestors had, but on their urban lot behind the house! “On a quarter acre lot in Cleveland,” Michael said, “they grew all their fruits and vegetables, and grapes for wine, and chickens and goats for eggs and milk and meat. Several neighbors might share a barn.”

But now in front of him was another world — people who needed the noise of rock to feel alive. The music boomed. The performers shrieked, leaped, slid, tumbled, jerked, and rolled spasmodically around the stage. The fans screamed applause and tried to imitate the dancing, prancing, clomping, stomping, thumping, humping on stage, pounding at the air with their fists. The heavy beat rose out of the floor, growing like some reptilian vine up the agitated legs and into the yearning groins of the young people in the audience. I could feel it myself, a visceral explosion sending these spectators into frenzied abandonment. They kept extending their arms toward the stage, reaching out, reaching out for more.

More of what?

I felt intellect slipping away. I tried to fix my attention on a little white hole in my mind through which I could see beyond this enclosed maelstrom of noise into a faraway place where meadowlarks sang. What drove all these people to turn their backs on meadowlark song in favor of sonar, electronic pulsations of technology?

But was that really the case? Underneath the craziness was there a rationality I was missing, and underneath that rationality another kind of craziness called art?

I was about to find an answer. The end of the concert was not really the end of the concert. That came as the crowd, which by now I had named Throng as if it had an identity apart from the people in it, filed out the exit corridor. As fifteen thousand rockers tried to work through the narrow passageway, physical gridlock occurred. The people in front slowed to barely a crawl while the crowd in back pressed ever forward. Bodies squeezed together so tightly that individual space and action became impossible— a traffic jam of human flesh. For the individual, there was no stopping, no turning back, no speeding up, no place to turn aside— the worst level of Hell that a solitary farmer could experience. A child or old person, falling, might have been trampled. An electric tremor of uneasiness flashed through the bodies globbed together like maggots in carrion. I thought of how a colony of sawfly larvae raised their heads from their eating in unison to resemble a pulsating wave of hairs standing on end. I could feel the anxiety surging through Throng, and saw that feeling reflected in the eyes of people around me. Little flashes of pushing and shoving and angry words broke out as the people behind continued to press forward when there was no forward to be gained. I had the sinking fear that with even the slightest provocation, Throng might turn vicious and whip its tail like a dragon, mashing bodies into human hamburger through the iron grillwork that flanked the sides of the exit corridor.

But from somewhere behind me, deep in Throng’s womb, came a human voice, bellowing like a cow. Throng quivered with the beginnings of laughter. Bawling cow noises now rose from different places. The idea caught on. Sheep blatting sounds joined in the chorus. Then came scattered donkey-like hee-haws and crowing like roosters . A concert of barnyard music filled the air. Intellect had realized that Throng was like a herd of cattle. To protect itself, to transcend animality, intellect was aping animality.

Tension drained from Throng. The crisis passed. I had a sudden illumination: That’s what rock concerts were really about. Sounds of unreasoned animality relieving the tensions of rationality. Art enfolding.

From afar I thought I heard a meadowlark.
~~
Gene and Carol Logsdon have a small-scale experimental farm in Wyandot County, Ohio.
Excerpt from:
The Mother of All Arts: Agrarianism and the Creative Impulse (Culture of the Land)
Gene’s latest book: The Last of the Husbandmen: A Novel of Farming Life
Image Credit: Wikipedia
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The Best Hummus You’ve Ever Tasted (Organic Recipe)

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From Jeff Cox

Hummus is the thick, addictive spread you scoop up with torn bits of pita bread and eat along with tabbouleh salad. Organic chickpeas—also called garbanzo beans—are available both as dried beans and canned in water. Several sources also sell organic tahini, which is raw sesame seeds ground to an oily paste.

Chickpeas contain low glycemic carbohydrates, which means that instead of spiking your body’s insulin levels, they slowly release sustained energy to the body and keep insulin levels steady, which keeps your blood sugar levels moderated instead of jumping all over the place.

When soaked organic chickpeas and tahini get together, a synergy of flavor makes the result irresistible. The following recipe is from Chef Mark Stark of Monti’s Rotisserie and Bar in Santa Rosa, California. His additions of spices and harissa to the basic recipe give this hummus a flavor surge. Serve with pita bread.

Makes about 2 cups

1 cup dried organic chickpeas, or 2 cups cooked or canned chickpeas, drained
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
5 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed organic lemon juice
3 tablespoons organic tahini
1/2 teaspoon Harissa (see below)
Pinch of salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh parsley

1. If you’re starting with dried beans, soak them in cold water overnight. Drain, place in a heavy pot, and cover with fresh water to a depth of 3 inches. Bring to a full boil and boil for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, 1 to 2 hours, until they are uniformly tender. Cool and drain. If using canned chickpeas, rinse them in fresh water.

2. Toast the cumin seeds in a small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, just a minute or two. Set aside to cool, then grind in a spice or coffee grinder, or with a mortar and pestle.

3. Place the chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, and 1/4 cup water in a blender and puree until smooth. Add the cumin, tahini, harissa, and salt, and blend until incorporated. Place the hummus in an oval shallow bowl and with the back of a tablespoon, make a depression down the center. Fill the depression with the olive oil. Sprinkle the parsley over the top.
~

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Organic Homemade Harissa Hot Sauce Recipe

Makes about 1 cup

This hot sauce originated in Tunisia but has become the staple flavoring agent for many North African dishes. You can buy it canned or in tubes at many Middle Eastern markets, but it tastes best when homemade and will last in the fridge up to six months. You can vary the level of pungency by choosing different varieties of chiles. For a good, hot harissa—the way the Moroccans like it—use dried pasillas or chipotles, and if you want to maximize the burn, include a dried habanero or two.

12 dried organic chiles, sliced in half, seeds removed, and roughly chopped
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for storage
1 teaspoon ground cumin
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
Salt to taste

1. Soak the pieces of chile in warm water for 30 minutes, until they soften. Drain and place the chiles in a blender with the olive oil, cumin, garlic, and salt.

2. Blend until a smooth paste is formed. Put the paste into a small jar and float 1/4 inch of olive oil on top. Cap and refrigerate.
~~
Jeff Cox is author of The Organic Cook’s Bible and lives in Sonoma County, California.

Coming March 4th – The Organic Food Shopper’s Guide
Image Credits:
Hummus © Photographer: Imagepointphoto | Agency: Dreamstime.com
Harissa © Photographer: Mjutabor | Agency: Dreamstime.com
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Beer-Battered Alaska Halibut with Organic Sweet Potato Home Fries Recipe

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From Greg Atkinson

Because it contains bubbles of carbon dioxide that expand in the heat of the fryer, beer makes an excellent frying batter that cooks up light and crisp. The residual flavors of hops and malt lend the fried food character. I like to use a beer that has a pronounced flavor, such as the slightly sweet Alaskan Amber Ale. Made with pure water from the 1,200-square-mile Juneau ice fields, the beer is based on a hundred-year-old recipe; it’s richly malted and well balanced with bitter hops. It almost seems wasteful to put this beer into a batter, but it’s not. Serve with Sweet Potato Home Fries (below), and some of the same beer to drink.

Makes 6 servings

For the Halibut

Rice bran or canola oil, for frying
2 pounds halibut fillet, cut into 6 pieces
1 teaspoon salt, or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Beer Batter

2 eggs
One 12-ounce bottle beer or ale such as Alaskan Amber
2 cups organic unbleached white flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, or 1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with a brown paper bag or some paper towels so it will be ready to receive the fish when it’s fried. Put about 3 inches of oil in a medium cast-iron skillet or deep, heavy saucepan over high heat to get hot. When the oil reaches 375°F on a thermometer, or when a drop of the beer batter floats immediately to the surface and swims across the surface of the oil, bubbling all the way, it’s ready.

2. While the oil is heating, make the beer batter. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and beer. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture and whisk until well combined.

3. Sprinkle the fish fillets with the salt and pepper, then dip them in the beer batter and fry, 2 at a time, until they are well browned and cooked through, about 7 minutes. Transfer the first fish fillets to the paper-lined baking sheet, and put them in the warm oven while frying the remaining fillets.
~

Sweet Potato Home Fries

Some confusion over yams and sweet potatoes is inevitable. True yams are very large vegetables that originated in Asia; they are almost never seen in the United States. What we call yams are really dark red sweet potatoes. Marketers label dark sweet potatoes yams because it helps distinguish them from the lighter varieties. Our favorite sweet potatoes are the very dark ones sold as “ruby red yams.”

Makes 6 servings

6 medium (about 2 pounds) organic sweet potatoes or “yams”
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 1/2 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Prepare a baking sheet by lining it with a nonstick silicone sheet or baker’s parchment.

2. Use a sharp knife or a vegetable peeler to peel the sweet potatoes. Cut each one in half lengthwise, then place each half cut side down and cut them into wedges about 1 inch wide at the thickest part.

3. Put the wedges in a large mixing bowl and mix with the oil. Sprinkle the sugar, salt, and pepper over the slices and toss to coat them evenly on all sides.

4. Arrange the sweet potato wedges on the prepared baking sheet with plenty of space between them. Bake for 8 minutes, then turn the slices over and bake until they are slightly browned and perfectly tender, about 5 minutes more. Serve hot.
~~
Greg Atkinson is author of West Coast Cooking and lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington.
© Copyright Greg Atkinson
Image Credit: Halibut.net
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