From Greg Atkinson

Who can say where this cocktail party standard originated? Versions have sprung up all over North America, like mushrooms from some vast mycelium spread just beneath the surface of our consciousness. When we were writing a new bar menu for Canlis Restaurant in Seattle at the turn of this century, I asked all the lead cooks to brainstorm ideas for classic appetizers that could be shared, and Jeff Maxfield, who was sous chef at the time, devised this quintessential version of the classic American crab dip. Many versions rely on packaged seasoning blends for flavor; this one is delightfully natural.

Makes about 4 cups.

1 tablespoon organic olive oil
1 small leek, finely chopped
1 small onion, peeled and diced
1 tablespoon grated garlic
1 tablespoon minced ginger root
2 tablespoons riesling or other off-dry white wine
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup canned artichoke hearts, drained and chopped
8 ounces natural cream cheese
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh fennel or dill leaves
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces fresh jumbo lump crab meat
Kosher salt, to taste

For the Crumb Topping

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
24 slices of French bread, light toasted

1. Preheat the oven to 425ºF and lightly butter a 16-ounce gratin dish.

2. In a sauté pan, heat the oil and cook the leek, onion, garlic, and ginger over moderate heat, stirring until pale golden. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine has evaporated. Add the cream and simmer, stirring, until it is thickened and slightly reduced, about 2 minutes. Then stir in the artichoke hearts.

3. Transfer the mixture to a medium mixing bowl and stir in the cream cheese. Mix until thoroughly incorporated, then stir in the mustard, parsley, fennel, and pepper. Stir in the crabmeat but do not overmix; some chunks of crabmeat should remain unincorporated. Taste the mixture and add salt, if desired. Transfer the mixture to the buttered gratin dish.

4. Combine the ingredients for the crumb topping and distribute the mixture over the surface of the crab dip. Bake until well browned on top and bubbling hot, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve with toasted French bread.
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Greg Atkinson is author of West Coast Cooking and lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington.
© Copyright Greg Atkinson
Image Credit: Wikipedia – National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
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