From Greg Atkinson

Oyster lovers are supposed to prefer their oysters as simply as possible, preferably dressed in nothing more than the drop of seawater inside their shells, and I do like oysters that way. But I am also a sucker for oysters in fancy attire, like this chi-chi arrangement of meaty-textured steamed oysters in a velvety chemise of sweet wine butter sauce with a ruffle of spinach leaves cut into ribbons. The combination of sweet wine and salty oysters is powerfully seductive.

Makes 12 appetizer servings

3 dozen live medium Pacific oysters in the shell
1 cup water
One 375-milliliter (12.7 ounce) bottle organic late-harvest dessert wine
1 tablespoon sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
Generous grind of black pepper
2 cups (4 sticks) cold unsalted organic butter, cut into 1-inch bits
1 cup shredded spinach, for lining the platter

1. Scrub the oysters and put them in a large kettle with the water. Light the burner under the oysters and cook over high heat until most of the oysters have popped open, 8 to 10 minutes. (If the oysters are ready before the sauce is finished, turn off the burner and allow the oysters to stay warm in the pan.)

2. Put the sweet wine in a saucepan over high heat and cook until it has reduced to about one fourth of its original volume. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper. Whisk in the cold butter bits to make a smooth, creamy sauce.

3. Open the steamed oysters and arrange them on a platter lined with the shredded spinach. Spoon or ladle a tablespoon of sauce over each oyster. Serve at once.
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Greg Atkinson is author of West Coast Cooking and lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington.
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