From Jesse Cool

My kitchen garden keeps me in deep respect of people who take the time to grow our food with care and concern and consciousness. No matter how far we travel, how industrialized or into cyberspace we go, we must give our bodies fuel, and I believe part of that fuel is found sitting at a table, eating food that we know is safe and delicious and gives pleasure, and creates a space for conversation, sharing, love, nurturing.

The western world survived a few decades eating food that was none of the above. The youth and next generation are connecting our food with respect… where it comes from, how it is produced, the social responsibility of how we treat those who grow it, and the soil, water, air that it is grown in.

We grow fat, lethargic, lose our brilliance, without good food. Maybe I’m a dreamer and forever optimistic, but I don’t believe people can last long without this kind of deep, sensual passion about food in their lives.
~

Recipe

The thinner you slice the vegetables, the better. I use a slicing mandolin… otherwise, use a very shar knife, take your time, and you will get the same results.

1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup (4 ounces) shredded Cheddar cheese
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 pounds winter squash (butternut, buttercup, Hokaido, or acorn), peeled and thinly sliced
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 golden flesh potatoes (such as Yukon gold), peeled and thinly sliced
2-3 cups milk
1/2 cup (2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 2-quart baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, Cheddar, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

Layer one-third of the squash, onion, potatoes, and fennel in the prepared baking dish. Dust with one-third of the flour mixture. Continue layering all 3 layers, finishing with the flour mixture. Pour the milk over all. Sprinkle with the Parmesan.

Bake for 1 1/2 hours, or until the vegetables are very tender and the gratin is golden brown. If the top browns too quickly, cover loosely with foil. Let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

Kitchen Tip: For a lighter version of this luscious dish, use vegetable or chicken broth instead of milk. I like to make this dish the day before serving, as the flavors seem to improve.
~~
Jesse Cool is author of Simply Organic: A Cookbook for Sustainable, Seasonal, and Local Ingredients, owner of CoolEatz Restaurants and Catering, and lives in Menlo Park, California.
Photo by Lisa Koenig
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